Writing a Brief a Manufacturer Can Work From

A manufacturing brief for an artist turning artwork into merchandise is different from a fashion tech pack, but it requires the same level of specificity. A good artist brief contains seven essential elements.

1. Product identity: What product are you making? Be precise. Not just "a scarf" but "a 90 by 90 centimetre square scarf in digital-printed silk twill with a hand-rolled hem." Every detail in this description narrows the scope of interpretation for the manufacturer.

2. Artwork file reference: The high-resolution artwork file (minimum 300 DPI at print size, CMYK colour mode). Include a numbered reference in the brief so there is no ambiguity about which file applies to which product.

3. Colour references: Your primary colour reference for review and approval. This may be a screen reference (less reliable), a printed Pantone chip (reliable), a physical sample of the original artwork, or a previously approved strike-off.

4. Fabric specification: The exact fabric you require, including fibre content, weight (in grams per square metre where possible), weave structure, and finish. If you have a supplier reference number or swatch, include it.

5. Finishing details: How are the edges to be finished? Hand-rolled hem, machine-rolled hem, or raw edge? Are there any labels, tags, or brand marks required? What is the care label requirement?

6. Quantities: The quantity required for the sample stage. Separate from the eventual production quantity, which you do not need to specify at brief stage.

7. Timeline: When do you need the sample? Build in a realistic buffer. Rushing sampling leads to missed details and poorer results.

Most brief problems fall into one of four categories. Understanding them in advance means you avoid the most costly mistakes.

Relying on images instead of specifications: Sending a reference image (even a good one) and hoping the manufacturer will interpret it correctly is not a brief. A reference image is useful as a supporting document, but it cannot replace written specifications. A manufacturer reading a reference image will make assumptions. Every assumption is a potential error in the sample.

Specifying outcome rather than input: "I want the colours to look rich and vibrant" is an outcome, not a specification. "Please reproduce the CMYK values as provided in the enclosed colour reference, targeting no more than 5% variation in any individual colour channel" is a specification. Outcome language creates disagreement. Technical language creates shared responsibility.

Omitting edge and finishing detail: The finish of a scarf is a significant part of its perceived quality and value. A hand-rolled hem adds £3 to £8 per unit to the cost but contributes substantially to the premium feel of the finished product. If you do not specify the hem type, the manufacturer will default to their standard. Their standard may not be what you need.

Failing to specify the approval process: Your brief should state clearly that no production should begin until you have reviewed and signed off on a strike-off. Include this as an explicit requirement, not an assumption. Some manufacturers will proceed to production without a formal sign-off if they are not instructed otherwise.

How you communicate with a manufacturer from the very first email shapes the entire relationship. Manufacturers who specialise in small-run artist merchandise deal with a wide range of clients, from highly experienced product developers to first-time producers. Presenting yourself clearly and professionally from the outset signals that you are a serious client and often results in more attentive service.

In your initial contact, include:

• A brief, professional introduction to who you are and what you do as an artist
• A clear description of the product you want to make
• Your approximate quantities (for the sample and intended first production run)
• Your timeline requirements
• A specific question that demonstrates you have done your research (for example, asking about their minimum order for digital printing on silk twill, or their typical strike-off turnaround time)

Avoid: sending mood boards as your primary communication, using vague descriptors like "high-end" or "luxury" without specifying what that means technically, or asking open-ended questions like "what would you suggest?" before you have established what you need.

The manufacturer's response to your initial brief tells you a great deal about how the relationship will work. A manufacturer who asks detailed clarifying questions is one who is paying attention. A manufacturer who simply says "yes, we can do that" without any questions about your specifications should prompt caution.

The Artist Brief Template included with this chapter is designed to be completed before you make any contact with a manufacturer. Fill it in completely. Where you find sections you cannot complete, that gap in your knowledge is important information: it tells you what you still need to research before you are ready to brief.

The template includes sections for:

• Product description and dimensions
• Fabric specification with supplier reference fields
• Artwork file information and colour reference methodology
• Finishing and edge treatment requirements
• Labelling and care instruction requirements
• Sample approval process (strike-off requirement and sign-off procedure)
• Timeline with milestone dates
• Version control (so that if the brief is revised, both you and the manufacturer are working from the same version)

A completed brief is also a useful document for comparing quotes from multiple manufacturers. When every manufacturer is responding to the same specification, the quotes are genuinely comparable. When manufacturers are quoting against different understandings of the same project, comparing quotes becomes meaningless.